A staycation in the idyllic county of Shropshire feels like taking a journey back in time, its panorama of lush green hills and sweeping valleys stretching as far as the eye can see.
From our chic farmhouse base in the village of Chirbury, we were perfectly placed to explore Shropshire’s pretty and beautifully preserved historic towns, and we spent a fun and all-too-brief afternoon in Shrewsbury itself, a market town on the River Severn.
Its history dates to at least 901AD and its 11th-century castle was built by order of William the Conqueror. The town is teeming with handsome half-timbered Tudor buildings and it’s a brilliant destination for independent shops. Highlights include Write Here for stationery, Maggie Mae’s Vintage for clothes, and Left For Dead records.
But Shrewsbury Market Hall was an unexpected highlight. Look beyond the hall’s rather plain 1960s exterior and climb the concrete stairs to discover an expanse of cafes and stalls. Renowned for its vibrant food scene, it’s little wonder Shrewsbury Market was voted the UK’s favourite indoor market last year.
We had a delicious lunch at the relaxed and welcoming Moreish World Food, tucked away in a cosy corner, its menu ranging from Turkish mezze and Argentinian steak to Japanese chicken karaage. Then we scattered to browse local independent makers’ stalls. Buy retro kitchen paraphernalia at The Cupboard, drink gin at Gindifferent, or treat yourself to elegantly packaged skincare from Lily M. We chose wine from the carefully curated shelves of Iron & Rose, which has bottles to suit every budget.
There’s also bric a brac, second-hand clothing and traditional market stalls selling meat, cheese and vegetables. I got lost amid the shelves of the tiny but mighty Raven Bookshop, from its 50p bargain bookcases to a range of orange Penguin collectibles and vintage hardbacks. A wall chart allows you to measure yourself against literary legends and, chillingly, I’m the same height as Lady Macbeth.
If you prefer the tranquillity of the countryside to the buzz of a town, Shropshire will leave you spoiled for choice for idyllic walks. The Discovery Centre near Craven Arms is home to a life-size mammoth and a replica of bones found in a Shrewsbury quarry in 1986, which date back to around 14,000 years. Its Shropshire Through Time exhibition shows how the area has transformed over the centuries from the Ice Age to the present day.
There’s also a short film, written by local author Liz Hyder and narrated by actor Billy Postlethwaite, giving a breathtaking bird’s eye view of the area.
With 30 acres of riverside meadows to explore, The Discovery Centre sits at the crossroads of four Shropshire Way routes. They take in locations including the stunning Long Mynd, a moorland plateau with breathtaking views, or the dramatic vistas of Wenlock Edge. They also sell six walking maps, the routes ranging from 1.5 miles on the Onny Meadows walk to the more challenging 10-mile Wart Hill Wander.
The two-mile Stokesay Stroll takes in Stokesay Castle, the best-preserved fortified medieval manor house in England. It was built in the 13th century and its great hall looks the same as it did 700 years ago, while the North Tower evokes medieval home life, with its original tiled floor and wall painting.
History buffs should also visit the National Trust’s Attingham Park, an 18th-century estate with a Regency mansion and 200 acres of parkland to stretch your legs in.
In the evening we returned to our base, Calcot Farmhouse, which was so close to the Welsh border that we drove through Welsh territory every time we popped to the local supermarket. Though the farmhouse dates to the 17th century, its interior is wholly modern, tastefully presented and blissfully comfortable, from its elegant furniture to a spacious high-spec kitchen.
Light floods the garden room extension at the back and there’s lots of outdoor space and a hot tub for sunny days. The next day, we paid a visit to the tiny, quaint town of Bishop’s Castle where we stopped to refuel in the cosy and atmospheric Castle Hotel, built in 1719. It’s well worth a visit for its imaginative pub food. The tempura king prawn with pickled watermelon is a must, and the beef bourguignon was slow cooked to perfection.
The Castle Hotel also serves delicious Shropshire Lady white wine, made in the local Kerry Vale Vineyard, along with real ales brewed locally in the Clun and Salopian breweries. Visit in the winter to thaw out by the hotel’s real log fire, or come in summer and enjoy their pretty gardens with views over the Shropshire Hills.
Shropshire boasts all the beauty of Cornwall or Devon but without the exhausting crowds and oversubscribed attractions. There were more local destinations, from Ludlow to Ironbridge, that we’ll explore next time. Because now that we’ve discovered the beauty and fascinating history of Shropshire, there definitely will be a next time.
Book the holiday
- Marrington Escapes offers a four- night, self-catering break at Calcot Farmhouse (sleeps eight), Marrington Estate, Chirbury, Shropshire, from £1,112. marringtonescapes.com
- More info at visitshropshire.co.uk